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SAMPLE STORY
appeared in Vol. 4 No. 1
Fall 1998 issue
of TroutSouth |
Backpacking for Trout
For Some of the Region's Best Fishing, Take a Hike With a Pack
Author Neal Bates on the upper section of Big Creek in North Carolina
By Neal Bates
Some -- if not most -- of the best wild trout streams in the Southern Appalachians have no road access. Yet nearly all have foot trail access. What this means to you and me is that there are hundreds, maybe thousands, of miles of lightly fished waters in the region. Many of these streams are on public land or even in wilderness areas. All that is required to reach these uneducated fish is a walk in the woods.
Better yet, strap on a backpack, bring along a good friend or two and make a weekend of it. You’ll be able to get twice as much fishing in and the camaraderie enjoyed around a campfire on a crisp autumn night will be remembered for a lifetime.
| "Fall is by far the best time to combine backpacking and trout fishing." |
Fall is by far the best time to combine backpacking and trout fishing. The weather is perfect, the colors are brilliant and the fishing is at or near its peak. It’s spawning time for brown and brook trout and both are extremely active, even during the middle of the day. Rainbows, also sensing the coming of winter, also feed heavily. It’s the best time of the year for sight casting to large brown trout and spotting several each day during this time is not uncommon.
Here’s a brief rundown on my favorite backpacking destinations for trout.
Jacks River (GA)
Located almost entirely within the Cohutta Wilderness Area of Georgia’s Chattahoochee National Forest, Jacks River is ideally suited for backpacking. This large, open mountain river offers nearly a dozen miles of fly casting opportunities, with only light competition from other anglers.
Backcountry camping is allowed along the entire length of Jacks River Trail (Forest Service Trail 13), but the upper half of the river provides the best fishing. Wild rainbow and brown trout inhabit the river in excellent numbers, with an occasional large brown trout materializing in its crystal clear waters. Rainbows from seven to 10 inches abound in this stream, with larger fish possible.
| "Due to its large size and ample casting room, fly fishing Jacks is easy even with an 8 1/2 or 9-foot rod." |
Due to its large size and ample casting room, fly fishing Jacks is easy even with an 8 1/2 or 9-foot rod. However, somewhat longer leaders (9feet) and finer tippet (6X) are often needed to fool trout in this exceedingly clear water. Adams parachutes, black and brown caddis and Light Cahills in sizes 14 and 16 are my favorite fall dry flies and size 16 and 18 beadhead Hares Ear, Pheasant Tail and Tellico are my nymph choices. Small woolly buggers, #10 or 12, fished early and late in the day can be effective in some of the river’s many large pools.
To reach the best fishing water, you should use the three-mile Beech Bottoms Trail (Forest Service Trail 74). This trail intersects Jacks River Trail approximately 1/3 of a mile upstream of Jacks River Falls -- worth seeing in its own right.
There are many miles of stream and any number of possible campsites upstream of the falls. To complicate matters somewhat, Beech Bottoms Trail originates just over the state line in Tennessee. To access it you will need to get on Cherokee National Forest Road 221 from U.S. Highway 411, just over the Tennessee line. Follow 221 to the confluence of the Jacks and Conasauga rivers. The road will follow Jacks River upstream for a few hundred yards before bearing to the left and uphill. Follow 221 for about 3/4-mile and take Forest Service Road 62 to the right. The Beech Bottoms Trail parking lot will be about three miles on the right.
Bald River (TN)
| "Browns up to nine pounds have been taken from the (Bald) river." |
Located entirely within Tennessee’s Cherokee National Forest, Bald River offers nearly a dozen miles of excellent fishing for rainbow, brown and even some brook trout. The best area for backpackers to concentrate on is the five-mile Bald River Gorge Wilderness Area. From the impressive Bald River Falls upstream to the Holly Flats Campground, Bald River Trail (Forest Service Trail 88) parallels the river through the gorge. A medium-sized stream throughout the gorge, Bald River is a rough and tumble watercourse crashing down waterfalls and cascades and is best fished with buddies.
19-inch brown trout pulled from the Bald River |
The river teems with seven to 10-inch rainbows and somewhat fewer browns, but 15 to 20-inch browns are also fairly common. Browns up to nine pounds have been taken from the river. Standard tackle and techniques work wonderfully and the river’s relatively unsophisticated trout. Short leaders and 5X or 4X tippet are all that’s needed. Shorter rods of 8 feet or less are preferable.
Attractor patterns like Thunderheads and Royal Wulffs in sizes 12 and 14 are my favorite dry flies. Beadhead Tellicos, Zug Bugs and Princes in sizes 14-18 are also effective. Large streamers with heavy weight can produce startling results from the river’s deeper pools. Size 4 or 6 Woolly Buggers and Matukas are both good choices.
Camping spots are somewhat limited though well-spaced along Bald River’s narrow gorge. Bald River Trail is best accessed from the upper end. Take Tellico River Road (Forest Service Road 210) about 14 miles from its intersection with Tennessee 165 outside Tellico Plains. Then turn right on Forest Service Road 126 and follow seven miles to the Holly Flats campground. Bald River Trail (88) will be on the right, just before a bridge crossing the river.
South Fork/Citico Creek (TN)
Located entirely within the Citico Creek Wilderness of Tennessee’s Cherokee National Forest, South Fork of Citico Creek provides approximately seven miles of backcountry fishing for very colorful rainbow trout. South Fork Trail (FS Trail 105) crosses back and forth across the creek in nearly all the creek’s fishable length.
| "It's not uncommon to catch 50 to 75 trout here (South Fork/Citico) in a full day." |
A small to medium stream by regional standards, South Fork nevertheless contains many deep, clear pools. This picturesque creek contains good numbers of brilliantly-colored wild rainbows. Most never top nine inches, but their numbers and reckless abandon when pouncing upon even the gaudiest fly make up for their size. It’s not uncommon to catch 50 to 75 trout here in a full day. Both techniques and tackle recommend for Bald River work well here too.
To reach South Fork Trail and its ample camping spots, take Hwy. 360 from Vonore, Tennessee. At about seven miles, 360 will turn right across a bridge and causeway, but continue straight. This will be Citico Creek Road. Continue approximately 20 miles until the road makes a hairpin turn to the right and up the hill. Just after turning uphill a small road will branch to the left. There is a trail sign marking FS 105 and room for three or four cars.
Little Santeetlah Creek (NC)
Located within the Joyce Kilmer Wilderness Area of North Carolina’s Nantahala National Forest, Little Santeetlah Creek offers a unique backpacking and trout fishing experience. Although a small and somewhat tight stream, Little Santeetlah flows through what is probably the largest stand of old growth in the eastern U.S.
Forest Service Trail 55 follows alongside the creek for approximately three miles of some of the most magnificent scenery in the Southern Appalachians. This isn’t to say that the trout in this stream don’t merit their own attention. The creek teems with seven to nine-inch rainbows and an occasional nice brown on the lower end.
These fish are extremely cooperative no matter what dry or nymph you cast. Tight casting conditions dictate short rods and leaders here, both 7 1/2 feet or less. But don’t worry about patterns here, just drag-free casts and stealth. There are any number of potential campsites along the trail.
To reach Little Santeetlah, take Forest Service Road 416 west off of Kilmer Road, which runs out of Robbinsville, NC. Forest Service Road 416 will lead you to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, which is clearly marked. Although there is a large parking lot at the end of this spur road, it’s for day parking only. There are several pull-offs along the shoulder for overnight parking.
Big Creek (NC)
Located on the North Carolina side of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Big Creek offers excellent backpacking opportunities in the park’s lightly visited northeast corner.
| "Big Creek offers excellent backpacking opportunities in the park's lightly visited northeast corner." |
One of the most beautiful trout streams in the Southern Appalachians, Big Creek is followed closely along its entire length by Big Creek Trail. With approximately 10 miles of fishable water, Big Creek offers possibilities for extended stays.
A fairly large stream, Big Creek is also strikingly clear. On few other streams will you see so many trout. In the large pool known as Midnight Hole I have sat and counted as many as 25 trout in easy view. Rainbow trout from seven to 10 inches abound and the occasional large brown is reported, yet I’ve not seen one myself.
Although fishing pressure is light on Big Creek, the water clarity can make fishing tricky at times. You occasionally have to use 6X tippet on nine-foot leaders to entice a fish. Longer rods are appropriate here, since there is usually plenty of casting room. Small dry flies, like Parachute Adams, BWO’s and Light Cahills work well. For sight casting to stubborn rainbows in clear pools, try a size 18 or 20 beadhead Pheasant Tail without a strike indicator. You may not be able to see your nymph, but you will be able to see the fish move toward it.
Since Big Creek is located in the national park, backcountry camping is permitted in designated areas only and a permit is required. Upper and Lower Walnut Bottoms campsites are located along the creek at approximately 5 and 5 1/4 miles from the trailhead. Both can hold 20 people, but are seldom crowded. Lower Walnut Bottoms is preferred because horses are excluded from this site.
To reach Big Creek, take the Waterville exit off I-40 in North Carolina and follow the signs. Inquire at the Big Creek Ranger Station about backcountry permits.
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Tips/Checklist
Fall weather is usually very mild and pleasant in the Southern Appalachians, but chilling rain and occasionally even snow can spoil a trip -- and even threaten your life -- if you’re unprepared. Check the weather forecast for the area you’re traveling to and bring clothing for inclement weather.
Always leave word with a friend or family member concerning your exact destination and your return. I urge taking at least one friend with you.
Every stream described in this list is in bear country, so bring rope and hang your food.
All streams except Big Creek are located in areas that are open to hunting in the fall. To check if a hunt is scheduled, call the Chattahoochee National Forest at , the Cherokee National Forest at , or the Nantahala/Pisgah National Forest at . As an extra precaution I usually carry a blaze orange baseball cap or bandanna to wear while fishing. It may scare a few fish, but it could keep me from getting shot.
Fishing licenses can be obtained in Chatsworth, Georgia, Vonore or Tellico Plains, Tennessee and Robbinsville, North Carolina, at several locations.
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My Personal Backpacking Checklist (40 - 50 lbs.)
Backpack (internal or external frame)
Sleeping Bag (rated to 40 degrees or lower)
Sleeping Pad (foam or inflatable)
Tent (3-season with rainfly, all less than 8 lbs.)
Food (Freeze-dried or dehydrated, not canned)
Water Purifier (mechanical or chemical)
Drink Mix (Tang or pre-mixed Kool-Aid)
Water Bottles (at least two)
Campstove (MSR Whisperlite recommended)
Fuel Bottle (12 oz. or more)
Flashlight (Small Maglite ideal)
Extra Batteries
Camera & Film
Toiletries
First Aid Kit
Rope or Cord (50 feet for hanging food)
Food Bag
Rod (in tube can double as walking stick)
Tackle (reel, tippet, leader, small fly box, hemostats, floatant)
Waders (ultralight stockingfoot)
Wading Boots (ultralight, felt-soled)
Change of Clothes (of material that retains heat even when wet)
Rainwear
Polar Fleece Jacket or Pullover
Topo Map of Area
Compass
Polarized Glasses
Hat
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